World Atlas of Terroirs: Guide to tea regions and origins

The city of Wuyishan, in northern Fujian, is the sanctuary of rock teas (Yan Cha). Tea plants grow there in gorges of volcanic origin, literally rooted in stone. The leaves absorb the minerals from the rock, giving the celebrated Da Hong Pao its unique minerality known as 'Yan Yun' (Rock Rhyme), underpinned by artisanal charcoal roasting.

Located on the north-eastern coast of Fujian, the mountainous district of Fuding benefits from a mild maritime climate and filtered sunlight. It is the birthplace of the Da Bai (Great White) cultivars. The spring harvest, simply withered in the sun and dried without any forced oxidation or rolling, produces Bai Hao Yinzhen (Silver Needles), a white tea with crystalline notes of fresh hay and watermelon.

On the outskirts of the metropolis of Hangzhou, the small village of Longjing (Dragon Well), bordering West Lake (Xihu), has a unique misty microclimate. The imperial harvest takes place there before the Qingming Festival. The leaves are hand-pressed in scorching woks to stop oxidation, creating a characteristic flat shape and intense aromas of roasted chestnut.

In the Xishuangbanna Autonomous Prefecture, Menghai county encompasses the primary forests where ancient wild tea trees (Gushu) survive. The extreme humidity and rich fungal biodiversity of Menghai's ambient air are essential for the natural fermentation of dark teas Pu-erh, imparting deep notes of undergrowth, leather and damp earth.

Although the city of Uji lends its name to the celebrated tea, it is the neighbouring town of Wazuka (Kyoto Prefecture) that produces nearly half of the Matcha from the region. Its steep valleys and dense morning mists rising from the river naturally filter the sunlight, creating a perfect environment for shading the tea plants (Tencha) before grinding them into powder on granite millstones.

In northern Kyushu, the village of Hoshino (Yame region) is surrounded by mountains that block the cold winds. This basin holds the mist and creates a wide daily temperature range. Farmers there cultivate Gyokuro (Jade Dew) under traditional rice-straw shades for more than 20 days, forcing the leaf to overproduce L-theanine for a liquor with explosive marine umami.

Kirishima, in the south of the island of Kyushu, is a city surrounded by active volcanoes. Volcanic ash (Shirasu) makes the soils incredibly well-draining and rich in minerals. This harsh terroir drives the roots deep in search of nutrients. The Senchas of Kirishima are renowned for their incisive aroma, fluorescent green colour and powerful, taut vegetal notes.

The district of Darjeeling is vast, but the small valley of Kurseong (South Valley), perched between 1000 and 2000 metres, is home to historic gardens. Water stress, vertiginous slopes and the icy Himalayan air slow growth to an extreme. This is where the First Flush (spring harvests) are born, with floral notes of muscat and almond that are impossible to reproduce elsewhere.

The city of Jorhat is the tea capital of Assam. Unlike the mountains, it is a tropical plain at sea level. Flooding from the Brahmaputra River saturates the soils with sediment, while the stifling heat acts as a natural greenhouse. The endemic broad-leaved Assamica cultivar produces full-bodied black teas with a vivid red liquor, very full-bodied, dominated by malt and honey.

Lugu Township, in Nantou County in central Taiwan, is home to Dong Ding Mountain (Frozen Peak). The mid-range altitude (800 metres) and perpetual mist provide ideal conditions. The masters of Lugu are renowned for their pearl-rolling technique and repeated moderate roasting. This process gives the tea a smooth texture and lingering notes of cooked honey and macadamia nut.

Zhuqi Township is the gateway to the Alishan mountain range. At more than 1200 metres, the tea plants are immersed in a near-permanent sea of clouds, reducing sunlight and increasing the concentration of amino acids. The Oolongs from the high mountains (Gao Shan) offer a dizzying natural sweetness and intense aromas of white flowers and orchid.

At more than 1800 metres above sea level, the city of Nuwara Eliya experiences icy nights and very brisk air. This extreme mountain climate considerably slows leaf growth. The full-bodied black teas produced there are very lightly oxidised, offering a crystalline, lively liquor with subtle notes of cypress, eucalyptus and citrus, far removed from the full-bodied teas of the lowlands.

The city of Seogwipo, on the volcanic island of Jeju, has ultra-draining black basalt soil. Buffeted by salt-laden ocean winds, the tea plants develop thicker leaves to protect themselves. The delicate green teas spring (Woojeon), steamed then wok-roasted, develop a complex liquor combining briny umami with gentle notes of toasted grains.

In the mountainous commune of Suoi Giang, in north-western Vietnam, wild Shan Tuyet tea plants grow, some several centuries old. Growing in a primary forest without any human intervention, their giant buds covered in white down produce teas of rare mineral depth, marked by a syrupy texture and notes of forest honey.

Kericho is the heart of tea production in Kenya. Located on the high plateaus of the Great Rift Valley, the city benefits from red volcanic soils that are exceptionally rich and acidic. Near-equatorial sunshine and regular rainfall allow the leaves to develop very high levels of catechins. The result is a black tea (often CTC) with a brilliant copper-coloured liquor, without bitterness, and notes of red berries.

The Rooibos does not come from Camellia sinensis, but it is a local institution. The city of Clanwilliam, at the foot of the Cederberg Mountains, has rocky soil and an extreme climate (very hot during the day, icy at night) that are essential to the survival of this endemic shrub. It is this environmental stress that creates its famous tannin-free red liquor, with notes of honey and vanilla.

The district of La Cumbre (Bitaco region) lies at nearly 2000 metres above sea level, in the Andes mountain range. Volcanic soils and the exceptionally high rainfall of this equatorial bioregion create a unique environment. The full-bodied black teas Colombian stand out for their surprising natural sweetness, offering notes of Andean cacao, muscat and cane honey.

Ozurgeti, near the Black Sea, enjoys a humid subtropical climate tempered by the Caucasus Mountains. It is one of the coldest tea-growing terroirs in the world. Winters beneath the snow naturally purify the plantations, eliminating the need for pesticides. The full-bodied black teas Georgian teas are renowned for their very low astringency and their gentle notes of dried plum and caramel.

The volcanic island of Sao Miguel, in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, has a mild, humid climate and iron-rich soils. Sea air constantly sweeps across the plantations. The full-bodied black teas and green teas produced on this remote island develop a subtle hint of ocean salinity, with gentle oxidation offering notes of ripe fruit.

In the Waikato region (North Island), the Zealong estate in Gordonton enjoys one of the purest environments on the planet, with rich soils free from any heavy-metal residue. Protected by natural hedges, the imported Taiwanese cultivars develop thick leaves, producing Oolongs of absolute aromatic purity, with notes of white flowers and fresh cream.