What is Umami flavor? The secret of the fifth taste
Written by Dian VAULTIER·
In Brief
- Umami is neither a sweet flavor, nor a salty flavor: it is a sensation of fullness, a density on the palate that the tongue perceives through dedicated receptors.
- In 1908, Japanese chemist Kikunae Ikeda isolated from a kombu broth a compound responsible for a taste sensation that neither sweetness, nor saltiness, nor acidity, nor bitterness can descr…
- The expertise of the HOLLIN sommelier: what is Umami flavor, decoded by a purist Tea Maison, with no added flavorings, based in Sartrouville (Île-de-France) and shipping its grand crus worldwide.
Umami is neither a sweet flavor, nor a salty flavor: it is a sensation of fullness, a density on the palate that the tongue perceives through dedicated receptors. In tea, it is the direct sign of a leaf rich in amino acids.
The scientific origin of Umami: L theanine and amino acids
In 1908, Japanese chemist Kikunae Ikeda isolated from a kombu broth a compound responsible for a taste sensation that neither sweetness, nor saltiness, nor acidity, nor bitterness can describe. It is glutamic acid, in its ionized form, glutamate. He named this perception umami, literally savory flavor. Physiology proved him right much later: the tongue has specific receptors, of the T1R1 and T1R3 types, sensitive to glutamate and certain nucleotides.
In the leaf of Camellia sinensis, this family of molecules is widely represented. Free amino acids can make up several percent of the dry matter of a green tea of high rank, and L theanine alone accounts for the majority of it. It is an amino acid almost exclusive to the tea plant, structurally similar to glutamate, which activates the same receptors.
Umami therefore manifests itself in cup through a thick, almost broth-like liquor, with prolonged salivation after the sip. It is not an aroma perceived by the nose, but a flavor perceived by the tongue, which explains why an umami-rich tea may seem discreet on the first nose and immense on the palate.
The impact of shading on tea leaves (the secret of Matcha)
The concentration of amino acids in a leaf is not a matter of terroir by chance: it is cultivated in the field. Around twenty days before harvest, the tea plants intended for Matcha or for Gyokuro are covered with shade cloths that block a large portion of the sun's rays. Photosynthesis slows dramatically.
This slowdown has a decisive chemical consequence. Under normal light, the L theanine synthesized by the roots migrates into the leaf and then gradually breaks down into catechins, the polyphenols responsible for bitterness and astringency. Deprived of light, the plant no longer carries out this conversion: L theanine accumulates, chlorophyll increases to compensate for the lack of light, and the leaf becomes darker, more tender, softer.
This is exactly what is found in a bowl of Matcha, where the whole leaf, ground on a stone mill, is consumed rather than simply infused: all the amino acids reach the palate. To understand in detail what changes when moving from whole leaf to powder, read our article on the fundamental differences between tea leaf and matcha.
How to taste and recognize Umami in your cup?
Umami is delicate: it is extracted at a low temperature, while tannins require heat. Water between 55 and 70 degrees, atime short with a generous quantity of leaves, and the liquor shifts from vivid vegetal notes to silky broth. Boiling water on the same tea overwhelms the umami with bitterness.
When tasting, look for three signals. First, the texture: a rich, almost velvety sensation that coats the palate. Then salivation: it lingers for several seconds after swallowing. Finally, the length: the flavor remains stable rather than fading, with no sweet peak or astringent bite. Our green teas are the clearest field of observation for this exercise.
A true tea reveals its umami naturally. At HOLLIN, no leaf receives added flavorings, because a surface fragrance would cover precisely the subtle depth that the cultivar, shading and picking have taken weeks to build. What you taste belongs to the plant.
Come taste umami at the counter
Describing a texture remains an imperfect exercise. We warmly invite you to experience this silky texture in the cup in Sartrouville, in Île de France, at the Hollin du Goût counter, our contemporary Asian grocery. We will gladly prepare a shade-grown tea at a low temperature alongside a full-sun tea, so that the difference can be felt immediately.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
- Which teas contain the most umami?
- Japanese shade-grown teas dominate by far: Gyokuro, Kabusecha and quality matcha ceremony, all shaded for two to three weeks before harvest. Next come first-harvest Sencha, more vibrant but already rich in L theanine. A young picking, rich in buds, always concentrates more amino acids than a mature leaf.
- Is umami present in black teas?
- It is much more discreet there. Full oxidation transforms a large proportion of the amino acids and catechins into theaflavins and thearubigins, which build the body, malty roundness and coppery color of the liquor. The result is an indulgent fullness rather than a distinct umami. Some black teas from high altitudes, harvested young, retain a trace of it on the finish.
- Why is my matcha bitter rather than umami?
- Three main causes: water that is too hot, which extracts the catechins before the amino acids, culinary-grade powder made from mature, lightly shaded leaves, or powder oxidized by storage in air and light. Use water around 70 degrees, fresh stone-ground powder, and keep the pouch sealed in a cool place away from light.